Story and Photos by Jørn Eriksson

There are not many mountains around our planet over 6000 metres that are achievable without spending weeks climbing or waiting for a weather window. However Stok Kangri in the Indian Himalaya is within reach without you needing to quit your job or leave your family for very long. It took 16 days to fly out from Oslo, and back, and that includes a serious overnight detour to Agra seeing Taj Mahal too. So this journey was more than a climb; it was also a spiritual and cultural exploration never to forget.

I did the Stok Kangri trek back in 2014. That’s twelve years ago (!) – But it doesn’t feel that long. I guess experiences like that stick with you – close at heart – throug all life. Yet it has been many years, so I recognise that I don’t remember everything that good anymore. There could be details I am wrong about, like how long we walked that day, from where came, and where we went. But there are moments you cherish, that you feel that you can almost reach out and touch when closing your eyes and think about it. Like the moment the when the sun rised over the endless Himalayan montain range (seeing that from above 6000 metres altiude is magical – making you feel connected to the entire world), but I can also remember small moments like a particular flower, a smell, or the taste of a certain bread, or a cup of tea.

Stok Kangri is a peak in the Stok Range with Marka valley on one side and the dusty village Leh in the North – with simple conditions, but a place you never forget. We spent 3 days in Leh. The Trek itself took 10 days through a rocky desert landscape – that also is the home of the mystical snow leopard.

These places are located in Ladakh in Northern India. Ladakh has long been called “Little Tibet” and a spiritual aura is felt everywhere you go with it’s mighty nature, old buildings- and lack of modern day infrastructure, and not forget Buddhist monasteries that dot the landcape.

The thrilling flight

On my previous trips I arranged everything my self. This time we went with a Danish company and group with the comfort that included. We meet up with the danes on the airport in Zurich where we would carry on to Dehli. In Dehli we waited many hours in the airport for a new domestic flight that would take us to a millitary airport near the small town of Leh in the north of India. This flight wa scheduled to take about two hours, but ended up being much longer. To be able to land in Leh the plane had to fly through a massive and relatively narrow mountain pass to land. However strong winds made this impossible for the pilots. The pilots decided to circle around until the winds eased. At one point they said we would have to fly back to Dehli very soon. If not we wouldn’t have enough fuel. However he decided to make on try flying through the pass. It was a thrilling experience as we could constantly feel the wind bump into the airplane. When the plane went through the pass, it felt like we could almost put out our arms and touch the steep hills of the mountain (if there was an open window). However I sure the distance was relatively safe. It must be be a flight pilots both love and hate. Well we made it through the pass and landed safely. Obviously the passengers clapped their hands and praised the pilots. Not because we survived a scary landing, but mostly because we espaced flying back to Dehli.

Jammed phones

When landing at the small millityary airport outside Leh I realised that our phones were not working. Al foreign phones were jammed by the authorites. There was a internet cafe in the village we could use, but I later realised that the connection there was useless. This ment that I would have very limited contact with the world outside Leh next two weeks.

Leh

What a place. Stuck to my mind for ever after. The chaotic main street (that was no street at all, but just packed dirt), the barking dogs at night, the strange small houses, the people and the wild scenary. It’s all with me. We spent 3 days in Leh climatising before the trek.

I never had any problems with heights. But several of my new team-members already had issues. Leh is located at 3650 metres above sea level, and when coming straight out of an airplane that altitude will have immediatly effect on your body. Being in Leh for those days was a bit strange. It reminded me about those holiday-trips people do to some island in the Mediterranean. The only thing missing was the beach. Otherwise we crawled up and down the main street, went out eating, shopped souveniers and behavied like tourists do. Only difference was that we went for an climatation hike every day.

In Leh, and until we came back to Dehli I was only eating vegetar food. The reason for this was not suddely compation for the animals, but to avoid food that could spoil the trip. You don’t want an upset stomach when you are climbing Stok Kangri. Meat are transported into Leh from the lowland on open lorrys where meat are not stored cold, and the trip takes days, not hours. If you would eat any meat in Leh it should be chicken that are local. But that is the only local meat. However I never missed meat. The food was in fact very good and varied. I will go so far and say that the food was a great cultural- and tasty experience

After a few days living in Leh, we were more than ready to start our hike towards Stok Kangri. We had already been doing a couple of acclimatation trips around Leh. One trip was an breathtaking jeep rid up narrow roads to one of, if not the highest, mountain passes in the world

The Trek

When we finally were about to start our trek, and drove off from Leh we soon realised that the road was closed. We waited for hours in a smal. village of little interest. Frustrating when you are eager to start walking.

I don’t remember much of the start of the hike other than walking up a dusty road to the village Chilling where we camped. I visited a local monastry that I found very interesting, and I found some mindful moments during the evening that stick with me.

The next day we walked to Skiu – The terrain was much the same all the way, and what I remember most was the meeting with this old woman that followed the same trail as us for the village Skiu. She walked for hours in strong heat, just visiting family. Back then I was very outgoing – chatting with anyone I met So I got her story with some help with translation. I was with good health that day in the heat, chatting with my group members going up.

What I remember most from Skiu was the wonderful green plaines; with our ponys peacefully grassing there. You would probably not think much off it, if it wasn’t because it was such a contrast from the desert we ascended via. I remember reading a book I bougth in a bookshop in Leh. It was a buddhist approach to dealing with the modern life and it’s stress. We also played a game or two of chess. I do remember winning one of the games, but I probably have forgotten the one I lost.

The following days we trekked through a breathtaking canyon to the village Shingo

From Shingo we walked to Camp 4.400m over the Ganda La Pass. Via the pass we made a short ascent to the peak Ganda Ri 5.050 masl – That was one of my ideas; wanting to collect summits above 5K (Something I gave up on, understanding there are to many).

The Ganda La Pass was of two major passes we walked over on route to Stok Kangri the pass is at 4900 metres altitute.

Descenting from the pass we had breathtaking views, but also had company of many marmots. That best can be described as a “beaver” on land. No wonder the Snow leopard likes it up here, having plenty of food. From here we trekked to camp 4.400. The names says it all – it’s not much more than a camp in the shadows of a hill. However from here we could se the impressive Stok Kangri – our final destination.

Over the next days we continue hiking through rocky landscapes passing by different villages like larger Rumbak and tiny Yurutse. I found these villages really great to experience. A life so far from our western ways.

We had now been a few days trekking, and from Rumbak we were now heading over the pass Stok La. An impressive pass and wonderful trek The pass is at 4850 altitude. What you should know if you feel that you have done an achievemnt walking here; was there were horses too that traversed over the pass. On wrong step and the horse would die. You can only imagine how history has unfolded it’s self with tragedy here.

Much of the hike is a blur these days, but as the story brings me closer to the base camp of Stok Kangri my memory becomes better.

Situated above 5000 metres altitude this is high ground to sleep. Every day you are up here, you teared on. The base camp is a rocky ground with a a big tented shop on the lower slopes as the most noticeable there. Up here a coke or even a beer is priced accordingly to the altitude. High!

From my group I was the first to arrive base camp. I felt strong. However I have been on summit pushs before so I had all the respect I needed to reach the top with me every second of the day. The next day we went for a hike up the slopes of Stok Kangri before going back to camp. When returning I was focused on getting sleep, because at midnight we would push for the summit. Of course getting sleep during the day is difficult. Your body’s clock is against you, the heat and sunlight, but also the anxiety knowing that you will be up for big challenge in few hours when you normally woud sleep is hard to be a stoic about. Sleeping above 5000 metres altitude does not help either.

The summit push

I remember very well the moment when we finally was ready to start the task of climbing Stok Kangri. A few members of our group had already decided against completing our journey to the top. And even more would fall from during the night ahead. We trailed up a rocky path for hous in darkness. A small step followed the the previous small step. For me walks like this is about finding a meditative state of mind where the body just pushes on, and minutes and hours blend. You need to because this hike is 12 +/- hours without much rest. Some spent 16 hours.

After a few hours we came to the glacier that we need to cross to make it over to where the ridge starts. We had axes, rope and crampons. However the glacier was a gentle one, and nothing compared to what I was used to from Norway. I crossed the glacier alone going back. There was no risk in this. After taking off our crampons we climbed a steep slope up to the ridge of Stok Kangri. From here we could enjoy sunrise over the Himalaya range.

I really enjoyed this moment. When we reached the ridge, we could enjoy wonderful views in all directions. I beliveve we saw K2 in the distance.

It was just amazing being up here, and my body felt strong. We were now at 6000 meters altitude almost. The ridge was gentle and fun with huge drops at our left side. But as long as you kept to the right you had nothing to fear. However all mountains have their crux. The crux of Stok Kangri is just below the the summit. You have to walk up a rather steep but broad and rocky chimney. Below you is a huge drop. We had dry weather so technically this was no challenge. But knowing that you potentially in a worst case scenario could slip and go over the edge, made a few of us a bit stressed. Much of the reason for this can be blamed on the altitude that affects your mind to be less rational. A few roped up, which was only stupid because what is called the zipper-effect. It was nothing but false safety. We did this because one of our members felt safer, but I knew it was a bad idea as I locked to my self to the rope. However a big deal it was not. But going down, I decided not to join in on the rope. Neither did anyone else. I don’t remember how they solved it, but it was not a big problem.

My wach showd 6153 metres! We brought with us prayer flags that my friend put up. I also brought a Norwegian flag that we waved aroud. I don’t know for how long we were up there. But you are well aware being on summits like this, that you are only half way, so I guess I was eager to get down too.

For some reason it is always a race to get down to camp first, more than being the first to the summit. The hike back went well. I didn’t spent much time enjoying it. I walked fast, and was one of the fist to return. 12 hours in total was the time I spent. The rest of our group was cheering for us as we came back to camp. They was excited to have lunch with us, and was a bit disappointed when I decided to go straight to my tent and a good long rest for the next hours. But in the evening I was well rested, and we enjoyed a high altitude dinner and one of those expensive beers.